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Organic cotton is extremely popular – but farmers still find it difficult to change their conventional cultivation methods. A new project addresses this dilemma: Bundesliga football teams in Germany are promoting the switch to organic cotton in India. And thereby setting an example.
As the saying goes, many hands make light work. This is exactly what a group of men from Germany had in mind when they travelled to India three years ago. But there was a problem: they visited a textile factory that uses sustainable cotton. "There are often shortages of certified organic cotton," says Mathias Diestelmann. " We keep going to the market searching for it," says the managing director of "Brands Fashion," Europe's market leader for sustainable workwear. He was accompanied on the trip by Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) and a representative of a Bundesliga club whose fan shop sells products made from organically-certified Indian cotton. And he had an idea:
“If there is insufficient supply of organic cotton,” he said, “we’ll just have to increase it ourselves.”
And so the first seeds were sown for the “From field to fan shop” project. Funded by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, they set to work. Five clubs were needed in order to reach critical mass. GIZ organised events to promote the project and nine first and second division Bundesliga football clubs have now joined forces with Brands Fashion and GIZ to ensure increased supply:
450 smallholders are making the switch from conventional to certified organic cotton. In return, the project guarantees to buy their products.
“We wanted to make a start,” says Diestelmann. The cultivation of organic cotton is actually extremely beneficial for farmers: they achieve higher, more stable sales prices; not to mention the environmental impact. But there is a catch: the farmland doesn’t produce sufficient, truly certifiable organic cotton until three to four years after making the switch, so the change doesn’t happen overnight. In the meantime, growers have to make the necessary investment upfront and must be able to live with lower yields. Because the market either demands the cheapest possible conventional cotton or organically-certified cotton. So-called cotton in conversion, i.e. cotton grown during the three-year transition period, doesn’t meet either of these requirements. However, most cotton is grown by low-income smallholders, who shy away from making the switch. And 50 per cent of those who do so stop after a year, as they are unable to continue without assistance. Consequently, certified organic cotton only accounts for around one per cent of global cotton production.
“It’s a win-win situation,” says Diestelmann. The production region of Gujarat is located in northwest India. “Conventional cotton planting consumes much more fresh water than organic cotton, and the use of pesticides also pollutes the groundwater.” And water is becoming increasingly scarce in the area. Rivers have dried up and climate change is affecting the region in the form of drought and torrential rain. “There are already many crop failures. So action is required.”
In the long term, the approach adopted by the 450 smallholders funded by the project will put a stop to low yields and high cultivation costs as well as to the degradation of resources, resulting in long-term, direct business relationships in a region that is dominated by poverty.
"If we can reduce the water consumption by half for a T-shirt," says Jens Bräunig, B2C Director at VfB Stuttgart, "that's a major step in the right direction." And finally, he adds, the textile industry is one of those with the greatest environmental challenges.”
The football clubs stock the cotton-in-conversion products in their fan shops, meaning they pay the same price for them as they would for organic cotton. "We've already switched to sustainable for 90 percent of our cotton goods," says Bräunig. And his colleague Gordon Knebel, Head of Merchandising and Warehouse Logistics at 1. FC Union Berlin, says: We are thus expanding our raw material pool of certified cotton within the scope of our possibilities. And we are doing this in the fairest possible way."
Football already has the ability to reach people in a different way, to raise awareness of issues from which they are far removed.
"I was really surprised," Knebel reports about his first trip to the Gujarat region. "There's a lot to do there, it's a very poor region and you can see that clearly when you're there." He shares the legitimate hope that this project will become a flagship project. “We’re therefore demonstrating that conversion can be successful,” says Diestelmann. “If we can make it work with 450 farmers today, perhaps a bigger player with 1500 or 2000 farmers might make it tomorrow." ”Brands Fashion" is supporting the entire process – from design development to cultivation and production to distribution. The portfolio ranges from shirts and sweatshirts to baby grows and other products.
“The supply chain is completely transparent. Customers can use a tracking tool to track every item with the help of a QR code.”
But the project doesn’t stop at guaranteed purchases. The clubs are also initiating a sports program that teaches life skills. "In cooperation with an Indian NGO, the program prepares children for the job market, educates them about environmental protection and, as a central component, gives more than 700 children access to school, sports, water and lunch," says Bräunig. "We are focusing on girls and young women, because there is a particularly great need for them," adds Knebel. “On the pitch, everyone is the same, there are no gender roles. We encourage girls and young women to use their voice, to figuratively ask for the ball.”
Why are the clubs involved in this? “We serve as a role model,” says Bräunig. “We're required to be forward-thinking and responsible at every level, to plan and then to buy.” The club is therefore convinced it is doing the right thing. “We're not going to sell more shirts, but we take our social responsibility consciously and want to take as many fans as possible on the journey to more sustainability.” And Knebel says: “It’s not about scoring points for us. And not about sympathy. We’re simply taking a closer look at what we want to sell to our fans and want as many people involved as possible to feel they're being treated well and fairly."
Farmers are being closely supported during the conversion. They are being given organic seeds and receiving training in sustainable farming practices.
“During one visit, I met an old farmer,” recalls Diestelmann, “who told me: ‘Until the 1960s, we grew everything like this’ – he was referring to what we now call organic.” Then came the use of chemicals in the hope of increasing yields. But this proved delusory. Although modern organic farming is indeed based on some traditional practices, the framework conditions in the agricultural sector have changed dramatically in the last 60 years. Back then, farmers did not need to produce as much as today, for example.
The training not only helps producers to adapt to current organic standards but also to use proven scientific findings regarding farming practices, productivity and environmental impacts in order to remain competitive.
We call Shailesh Patel, in Kutch, Gujarat, at 11:30 a.m. He is in the office today and didn’t set off with his team at five in the morning to join the farmers in the fields; the heat dictates their working hours. “Six people are out right now, it’s harvest time,” he says, “I have a lot of paperwork to do today so I'm staying here.” Patel, 49, is the Cotton Project Manager at the Rapar & Dhrangadhra Cooperative – the association that works with the fan shop initiative. “It’s looking good so far,” he says, referring to this season’s yield. “We recognised the signs and have been in a more stable position since 2015.” The starting point: climate change, which has been affecting their fields for a long time. “Agriculture here depends on the rain. If there is too little or sometimes too much rainfall, plants and people all suffer.” To minimise the risk, producers have formed a community – and are now in direct contact with partners and negotiate their own contracts with buyers. And they are adapting to climate change: “We use our own seeds. Not only is this much cheaper, it also uses less water and extracts less nutrients from the soil.” Cotton in conversion is performing well: their “harvest expectations have almost been met” – and the farmers involved in the project will receive compensation for any financial losses. “Our long-term prospects are better than those of other farmers,” he says. “We’re increasing our revenue by improving our yields and reducing our costs.” He then hangs up; he still has a lot to plan: the next season starts at the end of June. The project is ongoing.